Refinance decision

Should you refinance your mortgage? See the honest answer.

A lower rate looks great in isolation. The real test is whether it pencils out after closing costs, against your actual hold period. This calculator runs both paths — keep vs. refinance — and shows the break-even month, the total savings or loss over your horizon, and the assumptions that move the verdict.

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Your current mortgage

Current balance
$
Current rate
%
Months remaining
mo

Refinance offer

New rate offered
%
New term
yrs
Refinance closing costs
$
Typical: 2–4% of refinanced loan amount. Includes lender fees, title, appraisal, recording.
Closing-cost handling

Your hold period

Years you'll keep this home
yrs
Median U.S. homeowner tenure is 8–13 years. Use your real plan, not 30.
How this is calculated

Monthly P&I uses standard amortization: L · r(1+r)ⁿ / ((1+r)ⁿ − 1), where L is the loan amount, r is the monthly rate, and n is the term in months. The current path uses your existing balance and remaining term. The refi path uses the same balance (or balance + closing costs if rolled) over the new term at the new rate.

Monthly savings = current P&I − new P&I. Break-even month = closing costs ÷ monthly savings. Net savings over horizon = (monthly savings × months in horizon) − closing costs paid.

What this doesn't model: the term-extension trade-off (refinancing into a fresh 30-year loan resets the clock — early years are mostly interest), the opportunity cost of paying closing costs in cash, and any tax effects. The savings figure is real, but a longer total interest bill over the life of the new loan is also real if you extend the term significantly.

Read the full methodology →Defaults reviewed May 2026

Your scenario over 7 years
Decision over your hold period:
Current monthly P&I
New monthly P&I (after refi)
Monthly savings
Break-even month
Net savings over 7 years

Keep current loan

Monthly P&I
Total P&I over horizon
Total interest over horizon
Cash out over horizon

Refinance now

Monthly P&I
Total P&I over horizon
Total interest over horizon
Closing costs paid
Cash out over horizon
Risk & context
  • Break-even rule of thumb: refinancing pencils out if you'll stay in the home well past the break-even month. If you sell or refinance again before then, you lose money on the closing costs.
  • Term extension trap: resetting a partially-paid 30-year loan into a fresh 30-year increases total interest paid even when monthly payments drop. The savings number above is real for your hold period — but check the lifetime number too.
  • Rolling closing costs: rolling the closing into the new loan lowers your day-one cash but means you're paying interest on those costs for the life of the loan.
  • Rate-only thinking is incomplete: a 1% rate drop is meaningful, but on a small remaining balance with limited horizon, the closing costs can swallow most of the savings.
  • Cash-out refinances: this calculator is for rate-and-term refinancing. Cash-out refinances change the math significantly — model those separately.
Estimates only. Get an actual loan estimate from a lender for your specific situation. Refinance offers vary widely on closing costs, lender credits, and rate-lock terms.
Why this comparison matters

A lower rate is not the same as a better loan.

The most common refinance mistake is treating the rate drop as the whole story. The math has three moving parts — monthly savings, break-even month, and time horizon — and ignoring any of the three produces the wrong answer.

Imagine a $340,000 balance at 7.25% with 26 years remaining. A 5.875% refi offer arrives. Monthly P&I drops by roughly $295. That sounds great. But the closing costs are $6,500. Break-even is month 22 — almost two years before refinancing starts saving net money. If your real plan is to be in the home another seven years, the savings are real and significant. If you're realistically thinking about selling within three, the closing costs eat most or all of the gain.

This calculator runs all three numbers together. It does not assume you'll stay 30 years. It uses your stated hold period to compute net savings honestly — including the closing costs you'll pay either way.

Why "1% rate drop = refinance" is wrong

The "1% rule" is a relic of a time when refinances cost roughly 1% of the loan amount. Modern closing costs run 2–4% on most loans, and the smaller the remaining balance, the harder it is for the savings to exceed the closing costs. A 1% drop on a $200K balance saves about $120/mo; on a $7,000 closing-cost refi, that's a 58-month break-even. If you're not staying close to five more years, the math doesn't work.

The term-extension question

When the calculator suggests refinancing wins your specific scenario, it's reporting savings over your hold period — not lifetime savings. If you take a partially-paid loan with 22 years remaining and refinance into a fresh 30-year, you've added eight years of interest payments to the back end. The monthly savings are real for the time you stay; if you don't sell before that loan ends, the lifetime interest can be higher than the loan you replaced. Many borrowers solve this by refinancing into a shorter term (15- or 20-year), which preserves rate savings without resetting the clock — at the cost of a higher monthly payment.

What this calculator doesn't do

It doesn't model cash-out refinancing (where you take additional money out at closing — that's a different decision). It doesn't model rate buydowns or temporary 2-1 buydown programs (the savings curve is non-linear). It doesn't model points paid at closing to reduce the rate further — assume any points are folded into the closing-cost figure you enter. And it isn't predictive about future rates: if rates drop further next year, you might refinance again, but it's better to make today's decision on today's numbers than to wait indefinitely.

FAQ

Common refinance questions.

What's a good rule of thumb for when to refinance?
There isn't one that works in every situation. The honest framing is: do the break-even math against your real hold period. If break-even is under 36 months and you'll stay 5+ more years, refinancing is usually worth it. If break-even is over 60 months, the rate drop has to be large to justify the closing costs. The classic "1% rule" is outdated — modern closing costs make smaller rate drops harder to justify.
Should I roll closing costs into the new loan or pay cash?
Paying cash is mathematically better if you have the cash and don't need it elsewhere — you avoid paying interest on the closing costs over the loan life. Rolling them in is fine if cash flow is tight or the cash has higher-yield uses (paying off higher-interest debt, maxing out a 401k match). Either way, the break-even calculation is the same: closing costs ÷ monthly savings = break-even month. Rolling just changes whether you pay them on day one or amortize them.
What about refinancing into a 15-year or 20-year loan?
Short-term refinances usually carry slightly lower rates than 30-year refinances and avoid the term-extension trap. The trade-off is a higher monthly payment — sometimes higher than your current 30-year-at-the-bad-rate payment. If your budget can handle it, a 15-year refi at 5.5% is often a stronger move than a 30-year refi at 5.875%. Run both scenarios in this calculator (change the new term) and compare the lifetime numbers.
Why does my hold period matter so much?
Because closing costs are paid up front and recovered through monthly savings over time. If you sell two months after refinancing, you've paid the full closing costs and recovered almost none of them. If you stay 10 years past break-even, the savings compound. Your hold period is the most important variable in the decision after the rate spread itself.
Should I wait for rates to drop more?
Nobody knows where rates go next, including the people who confidently predict it. The right framing is to make today's decision on today's numbers. If rates drop further later, you can refinance again — closing costs would be paid again, and the new break-even would have to clear. The honest answer is: refinance when the math works for your hold period at the rate you can lock today, not because you're predicting the next move.
Does this calculator account for the tax deduction on mortgage interest?
No. After the 2017 tax law changes, most U.S. taxpayers take the standard deduction and don't itemize, so mortgage interest doesn't reduce their tax bill. For households that do itemize, the deduction reduces both the keep-loan and refi-loan interest by the same percentage, so it doesn't change the relative comparison much. If you're a high-income itemizer with a large interest deduction, run the numbers with your CPA — but the relative ordering rarely flips.
What about the "no closing cost" refinance offers?
Those usually mean the closing costs are rolled into a slightly higher rate — a "lender credit." The lender pays the closing costs and recovers them through the rate spread over the life of the loan. This calculator's "Roll closing costs into the new loan" option models the same idea structurally. The mathematical takeaway: there's no such thing as truly free closing costs. Either you pay them at closing, in your loan balance, or in your rate. Compare total cost over your hold period to evaluate any "no-cost" offer honestly.
Is this investment advice?
No. OwningCost is not a financial advisor and this calculator is not a recommendation. It runs your assumptions through documented amortization math. Refinance decisions involve credit, qualification, and lender selection that the calculator doesn't model. Get an actual loan estimate from a lender (or several) before committing.
Make the right call

Run your specific numbers.

Edit the inputs above with your actual balance, your current rate, and the offer you've received. Set the hold period to what you realistically expect. The break-even and net savings will follow.