Calculator

Affordability Calculator with House Poor Risk Score

Three honest price tiers from your income, debts, down payment, and reserves — Conservative, Comfortable, Stretch — plus a diagnostic risk score that surfaces what would break first if anything changed.

Live tool Comfort band House Poor Risk Score
Independent housing-cost intelligence. Math runs in your browser. We don't capture inputs, sell data, or send you to a lender. More on what OwningCost is.

Your finances

Annual gross income
$
Monthly debtscars, student loans, cards
$
Down payment available
$
Cash reservesafter closing
$

Loan & property assumptions

Rate
%
Term
yrs
Property tax
%
Maint reserve
%
Insurance/mo
$
HOA/mo
$

Your comfort band

Conservative · 25/33
$285,000
~$2,650/mo · safe even with income shocks
DTI 25% / 33%
Comfortable · 28/36
$340,000
~$3,180/mo · the historical default
DTI 28% / 36%
Stretch · 33/43
$425,000
~$3,830/mo · upper limit · check risk score
DTI 33% / 43%
House Poor Risk Score
At the Comfortable tier · lower is safer
28/100
Cash reserves 7.9 mo · low risk
Rate sensitivity +10% at +1pp · moderate
Hidden cost exposure 42% of total · moderate
Stress DTI 39% back-end · acceptable
At the Comfortable tier, your reserves cover roughly 8 months of housing cost and a 1-point rate shock would raise your payment by ~$320/mo. Overall risk is low–moderate.
How this is calculated

Each tier's max housing cost = the lesser of (income × front-end DTI ÷ 12) and (income × back-end DTI ÷ 12 − monthly debts). From that we subtract tax, insurance, HOA, and maintenance, then solve for the loan amount that fits the remaining principal-and-interest budget.

Max price = max loan + your down payment. PMI is added to the monthly cost when down payment is under 20%, lowering the affordable price.

House Poor Risk Score weights four factors: reserves (30%), rate sensitivity at +1pp (25%), hidden cost share — non-P&I share of total housing (20%), and back-end DTI under stress (25%). 0 = very safe, 100 = severe risk.

Read the full methodology →

Real affordability

A pre-approval is a ceiling, not an answer.

Lenders approve buyers up to roughly 43–50% back-end debt-to-income. That ceiling assumes you have no other priorities — no savings goals, no children, no medical emergencies, no career changes, no rate exposure. The number you can actually live with is almost always lower than the number the lender will let you sign for.

This calculator runs three honest tiers — Conservative, Comfortable, Stretch — and grades the comfortable tier with a House Poor Risk Score so you can see what would break first if anything changed.

The comfort band, explained

Each tier is defined by two ratios. The first number is front-end DTI: housing payment as a percent of gross income. The second is back-end DTI: total debt obligations (housing plus car, student, credit) as a percent of gross income.

  • Conservative — 25/33. Housing stays under 25% of gross income. Total debt under 33%. This tier leaves room for retirement contributions, real savings, kids' expenses, and a margin for the unexpected. Appropriate when income is variable or you have other major goals.
  • Comfortable — 28/36. The historical lender default and the most sustainable for most households. Housing is meaningful but doesn't crowd out everything else. This is where most buyers should aim.
  • Stretch — 33/43. The upper limit. Workable for stable, high-savings households with low non-housing debt — risky for everyone else. The risk score should be in the safe zone before considering this tier.

Lender approval vs real affordability

The single biggest mistake in homebuying is treating the pre-approval letter as a target instead of a maximum. Lenders are paid to write loans. They use front-end and back-end DTI ceilings that haven't meaningfully changed since the 1980s, applied to a generation that now carries much more student debt, has much less pension security, and faces a property-tax and insurance environment that's rising faster than wages. Use the lender's number as the maximum the system will let you commit to. Use the comfort band as the number you can actually live with.

Reserves matter as much as price

A $400K home with 12 months of reserves is a different financial position from a $400K home with one month of reserves — even though the monthly payment is identical. Reserves are what carry you through a job loss, a medical event, an HVAC replacement, or a car totaling out at the wrong moment. The Risk Score weights reserve adequacy at 30% for that reason: it's the largest single determinant of whether a payment that's "fine on paper" stays fine when life happens.

A simple rule: if buying this home would leave you with less than 3 months of housing cost in liquid reserves after closing, the home is too expensive — regardless of what the lender approves. Aim for 6+ months. The risk score tells you where you actually land.

The House Poor Risk Score — what's inside

Four factors, weighted to reflect what actually puts homeowners under stress:

  • Cash reserves (30%). How many months of full housing cost your liquid reserves cover. 6+ months scores low risk; under 3 scores high.
  • Rate sensitivity (25%). The percentage payment increase under a 1-point rate shock. Matters most for ARM holders, near-term refinancers, and anyone in adjustable territory. Even fixed-rate buyers feel this if they need to refinance to access equity.
  • Hidden cost exposure (20%). The share of monthly housing cost that isn't principal and interest. Higher exposure means more of your bill is non-discretionary recurring expense (taxes, insurance, HOA, maintenance) that doesn't build equity. Markets like Texas and New Jersey see this run high.
  • Stress DTI (25%). Back-end DTI under a stressed rate scenario. This is the lender's real ceiling: when rates climb and you need to refinance or re-qualify, this is the number they look at.

The composite score gives you a single read on whether the home you're considering is likely to leave room in your life for everything else, or quietly take the room.

FAQ

Common questions about real affordability.

What's the difference between what a lender approves and what I can actually afford?
Lenders typically approve up to 43–50% back-end DTI. That ceiling assumes you have no other priorities. The Comfortable tier (28/36) reflects what most homeowners can sustain without strain. The Stretch tier shows the upper limit — with the risk score quantifying exposure if anything changes.
What is the House Poor Risk Score?
A 0–100 diagnostic combining cash reserves, rate sensitivity, hidden cost exposure, and stress DTI. Lower is safer. It tells you which factor would break first if income dropped, rates rose, or a major repair landed.
Why include a maintenance reserve when calculating affordability?
Because you'll spend it. Skipping it is how buyers end up cash-strapped two years in when the HVAC fails. We default to 1% of home value per year — the most widely accepted rule of thumb — adjustable based on home age and climate.
Should I use Conservative, Comfortable, or Stretch?
Comfortable (28/36) is the sensible default for most buyers. Use Conservative if your income is variable, you're early-career, or you have other major financial goals. Use Stretch only with the risk score in the safe zone — and even then, with eyes open.
Does this account for PMI if my down payment is under 20%?
Yes. When the down payment percentage falls below 20%, we include PMI at roughly 0.75% of the loan annually. This raises the monthly payment, which lowers the affordable home price. To eliminate PMI, increase the down payment to 20% or use a different loan type.
What if I have a co-borrower or two incomes?
Combine both incomes into the income field and combine all monthly debt obligations into the debts field. The DTI ratios apply to household income, so the math handles two-earner households the same way.
Why does my approved loan amount feel higher than the Comfortable tier?
Lenders use back-end DTI ceilings of 43–50%. The Comfortable tier uses 36%. Your bank may approve $475K when this calculator suggests $340K — and both numbers are mathematically consistent. The bank is showing you the maximum; this calculator is showing you what's livable. Use whichever fits your goals.
Next step

Found a price that fits? Now check what each home actually costs.

Affordability tells you the price band. The True Monthly Cost calculator tells you the real number for a specific home, with every line item exposed.